Setting the timing is step 5 in the tune up procedure. Ignition timing is dependent upon the rest of the ignition system being set up properly. Accurate timing cannot be achieved unless you have sufficient compression, correct valve clearance, correct ignition point gap, correct spark plug gaps and the engine is at normal operating temperature.
Here are three different methods that can be used to set your ignition timing:
These steps apply to all methods:Turn the engine using the crankshaft pulley nut until the rotor button (remove distributor cap so you can see the rotor button) is aligned with the groove in the distributor rim and the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley is aligned with the crankcase seem.
NOTE:
If your pulley has two timing marks the one on the right is 10 degrees BTC (before top dead center) and the one on the left is for 7.5 degrees BTC.
If your pulley has three notches they will be, from left to right, 5 deg. ATC, 7.5 deg BTC and 10 deg. BTC (See photo).
Crankshaft Pulley Timing Marks
Air Cooled Volkswagen Ignition Timing Method Using A Test Light
12 Volt Test Light
You do not need an expensive timing light to adjust your ignition timing. For air cooled Volkswagen engines a simple test light consisting of a 12 volt lamp and two leads with alligator clamps is not only sufficient but recommended. You can easily make one yourself or you can buy one at an auto parts store.
Loosen the clamp at the base of the distributor until you can turn the distributor with your hand.
Distributor Advance Unit
Connect one lead of your test light to terminal 1 on the distributor and the other to a solid ground.
Turn the distributor body clockwise until the contacts of the ignition points are closed. Turn on the ignition switch but do not start the engine. Turn the distributor counterclockwise until the test light comes on (just as the contact points are opening) and tighten down the clamp.
Air Cooled Volkswagen Ignition Timing Method Using A Volt Meter
The steps for using a volt meter to set your ignition timing are the same as those for using a test lamp. Instead of watching for the test light to come on you will be watching for a voltage reading on the meter. When the contact points are closed the meter should show 0. When the points begin to open voltage will be indicated on the meter.
Air Cooled Volkswagen Ignition Timing Method Using A Timing Light
If you have a timing light you can use it to set your timing.
Use chalk or something similar to the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley to make it easier to see with the timing light.
Remove the vacuum hose from the distributor advance unit.
Loosen the clamp at the base of the distributor until you can turn the distributor with your hand.
Connect one lead of your test light to the number 1 spark plug wire on the distributor and the other to a solid ground.
Start the engine and aim the timing light at the top of the crankshaft pulley. Rotate the distributor body until the appropriate mark on the crankshaft pulley is aligned with the crankcase seam. Tighten down the distributor clamp.
NOTE: Be very careful of the belt and other moving parts when performing this procedure.
Written by David Slone, Copyright 2008 AirCooledVWLove.com
nice blog!!! keep up the good work!!
I read this whole page searching for the setting and you call it THE APPROPRIATE SETTING………..
WHAT A WASTE OF TIME
Hello Jo
Unfortunately all air cooled VWs do not use the same setting. Dont you have a book? Every car owner should have a manual. Thats where you will find make and model specific settings like that.
I do understand your frustration however, perhaps I will add a list of every setting for every VW engine ever made, but that would be quite a task.
Very clear and concise directions, glad to have found you. will be back
Hi
My 1974 1200 beetle just has the one notch on the crankshaft pully but has three marks on the engine. I guess these are timing marks too. How do I time correctly with the marks on the engine?
Cheers
I have a 1966 baja with a 1600 built to a 1641 with a bigger cam and a holley carb. i was wondering if the timimg is going to be set the same as a stock 1600?
Top advise, many thanks -- just bought a project followed the advise above and it fired up dtraight away…….
I was Trying to time a VW bus motor Im not sure what size I was told it was an 1800 it’s on a sandrail. The distributor poped out. how do I align the distributor with the cam. It is in two pieces the middle conection can only go one way but the other end has 13 teeth. Any ideas
I didn’t know about the test light thing. I’m glad I stumbled across this site. Great work David. Some of these things are not only simple and unique but they WORK!!! Thank you.
thankyou soooo much for the advice. you are a life saver !
Is this true for all years of aircooled vws? I keep seeing thing that say this method may be used on only earlier modles (1968 or so and before) and that for example my 71 1600 ghia engine must use a different method.
I’m a bit confused, being an engineer I guess I’m more anal in instructions, using a volt meter or light.
Connect one lead of your test light to terminal 1 on the distributor (is this going to the #1 plug, and if so do I pull the cable out? if I don’t my VW will start right up) and the other to a solid ground.
Turn the distributor body clockwise until the contacts of the ignition points are closed. (how can I tell if I don’t remove the distrib cap?) Turn on the ignition switch but do not start the engine (my engine starts right up, should I pull the coil cable?). Turn the distributor counterclockwise until the test light comes on (just as the contact points are opening) and tighten down the clamp.
Hi Brett -- Your VW will start up when you turn the key to the on position? Normally you have to turn it a bit farther to engage the starter motor and then let it ease back to the on position once it starts. Your engine should not start when you click the key over to on (in a VW or any other car). It doesn’t matter if the spark plug cable is attached or not but the distributor cap needs to be off so you can see the points and access the clamp.
Thanks VW nut, I think I got it. I’m verifying proper current path at the point of circuit interuption. Thanks a bunch, sounds too simple.
hi vwnut
i am looking for hints. got old engine ( had it for 18months) running a bit smokey, Type 1 -1600cc, with one notch on pulley. dwell is ok at 40 degrees but using my timing light i just can’t get it timed at 12oclcock (casesplit)
I moved the distributor around and the sweetspot is about 8am-9am where the belt leaves the pulley.
I pulled out all spark plugs replaced with new and ensured spark gets to each plug. I cleaned rotor and inside dist cap.
could it be something mechanical like valves that stop me being able to time it at 12 oclock? I pulled off each rocker cover and saw all springs were moving and also squirting a bit of oil around. However I am not sure what is normal with valves etc
thx BCyril
Great information but if this question is stupid please excuse, I know the firing order is 1432 but on the distributor where do these cables go and which cable is #1 #4 #3 #2 where is #1 on the distributor on a 72 bus looking at it from the rear?
have done the timing on my 72 beetle
runs great but doesn’t want to stop when i turn off the ignition
is this a timing issue?
Hi
I just bought a 72 super beetle that had a LOT of work done: new carb, rebuilt engine, new plugs & wires, etc. However it sat a winter w/o being started. Now i have “adjusted” timing & played with the Pilot Jet to get it running at all, it seems to run fine but idle increases when she gets warmed. My question refers to the handling of the pilot jet, if i close it all way in the car will not start, when i open it 1/2 turn car runs great but as i said the idle increases, also if i have the Pilot Jet opened it seems loose in the threads & i am concerned it will shake out, so i tape it in position. I have NOT touched Main Jet or any others. Car also appears to have electronic ignition instead of points. Assuming all other engine items are good, what is the sequence of steps involving the jets that one follows?
Thanks
kb
To july 12 anonymous
Re 72 running on: there is a gadget that screws into left side of carb called an electromagnetic shut-off valve that is supposed to cease the engine running when key is turned off, maybe it needs reolacement.
wat is the firing order order on the destubuter caps
thanks keep up the good work
love what your doing
Supper, I’ve read this tune up information and make complete clear since to me. Just need to put into practice, VDub novice.
my engine is a 1776 with twin webbers it runs like a dog just had bottom end rebuild, timing and valves i think.
Hi thx for all the tips,Im new at all this but having gr8 fun -What i would like to know is i gor a beetch buggy with a vw engine, is there anyway to tell by looking at it if its a 12/15/1600 engine?
If it has a dual port intake manifold, (either 2 separate carburetors, one on each side…or it uses a single carburetor wih with a 3 piece intake manifold (joined by rubber bots with clamps) and it is a stock engine….it is at least 1600.
Both the 1200 and 1500 stock engines used a one piece intake manifold.
Lots of later modifications occur on buggies tho!Bill
Walt,
the fire order is right. he is how to tell which goes where.
looking down at the distrib. right on the rim you will find a very small notch in the rim where the top of the distrib cap sits down upon. That little notch is where you put # 1. Mark on the bottom of the distrib case with a piece of chalk under where the rim notch is. Then put the distrib cap on and seat it on the base with no wires connected. Take #1 and you will find on on the top that lines up with the mark you made on the bottom of distrib that also lines up with the small notch on the rim. So now you have # 1, then just work clockwise 1,4,3,2.
Hope that works
Mike
Hi Guys,
I have a dual port webber with flash arrestors. We just found it in the barn after 22yrs of not running. I think it is a 1970 -- 71 -- 72 ..maybe. The problem is that this distrib does not have a vacuum advance ! So how does it take care of advancing the timing and other chores ????? got any ideas on how to time this beast..???
Mikey
Mike- the distributor you have is a bosch 009 with centrifugal advance. you set the timing at 3000-3500 rpm to 28-32 degrees btdc and i believe the idle should sit somewhere around 5-7 atdc
my brother lossend the dis dont now how to set it back when it ran good two guys moved the spark plug wires around so im starting fresh can anyone help its a 1961 1200cc motor in a 61 glitter dune buggy any help please ok
I have a 1968 1776 dual port every thing is new battery,dist,starter,wires,plugs,and a swap kit for 12 volt alt.the car will not start it is like the battery is dead,i thought my gen was tore up is the reason i bought all this stuff but it continues to have the cranking problem.at first it would crank once and not again for a couple of days on the trickle charger but now it does not start at all,does any body have a suggestion
I recently bought a 66 bug, 1500. Its stalling out when I come to a stop. Lots a power when Im running. Someone has suggested I attempt to set the points. Im scared I might really srew it up. Whats the worst that will happen, it just won’t start ??? or what ????
ALETHA J.
Setting the points on an air cooled VW is just a routine matter. If you want that bug to run well you MUST tune it up regularly, including points and valve clearances. So you need to learn how to do it yourself or find a good VW mechanic who can do it for you. I recommend that you do it yourself. It isnt too difficult once you get a little bit of experience with it.
OH and congrats! I wish I had just recently bought a 66 bug myself!
working on a 72 vw beetle, i have spark but it wont start, did full tune up and still wont start dont even get a back fire, timed and set points, noticed a wire on rt. rear side of carb that seems to go nowhere even threw a little bit of gas down carb and still nothing. cranks and everything is turning and all wires get spark, I’m lost if the fuel solenoid is bad will it prevent me from throwing little bit of fuel down carb into the intake tubes?
i have a 1979 mini mark kit car i believe the motor is about a1969 1500 not sure though but it has a automatic air shifter which is a peice of crap wont shift but can hear air release the selenoid have to put it in gear start it an take off it starts in gear the booster by the tranny with the with the rod comming out has no resisent at all does this mean my diphram is busted in my booster and if so where could i buy one thanks for any help